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..There's a little Samuel Pepys in all of us..

Sunday, March 09, 2003

And for those who look to Baghdad, and see the teeming millions who starve and suffer.. a glimpse of the other side.. Hussein's world..
On Friday, as the world debated possible action against Iraq, some of Baghdad's elite were practising their jumping. Equestrian that is..
'If the weather wasn't bad we'd have a lot more riders,' said Ahmed, one of the coaches, as he mounted a horse in the ring. 'But everything is normal, even with the Americans. There were two doctors here this morning. They said they heard the bombing would start on Tuesday but they plan to come that day anyway.'
The British left a mixed legacy in Iraq - a typically well-organised civil service, palace intrigues that continue today, and a tradition of clubs. There are hundreds of them across Baghdad: some for professionals, one for every government ministry and others for religious minorities.
The business elite in Baghdad, who make up the majority of the Club's membership, has been doing well in the past few years. Following the the Gulf war, a class of 'new billionaires' made money from reconstructing the bombed Iraqi infrastructure. And during the oil-for-food programme, a lot of money was made in oil contracts as well as smuggling.
Many of the businessmen are Syrian and Lebanese, though Europeans, Russians and Canadians with government connections come in and out Baghdad on a regular basis. Arab businessmen, some of whom were offered Iraqi citizenship, were encouraged to move here and have opened some of the high-end restaurants that serve wine illegally to journalists and UN inspectors.
'Since 1991 and the sanctions we have been living normally - we haven't been affected by them in our business or our lives,' said Erfan Dhamen, the owner of a chain of restaurants that offer mazgouf , a Tigris river fish. 'Business is good - business in Iraq is getting better.'
One wonders if Kalashnikovs are standard issue for waiters.. Probably not..





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